The needle felting handbook
Loose wool in, firm shape out: the right needle for each job
Which needle size for which job, which wool felts fastest, how firm is firm enough, and what to change when a piece comes out fuzzy, lumpy or will not felt at all.
Which felting needle size for which job?
Open the full needle size chart →The process, step by step
Wool, needles and a pad come first. Then every sculpted piece goes through three steps: core shape, detail and color, surface finish. Flat work on fabric and wet felting have their own pages.
- part 1Choosing woolCarded batting felts fastest, combed top gives the smooth coat, core wool fills the inside.0 notes · 0 gear guides
- part 2Felting needlesSize 36 to build, 38 to shape and firm, 40 or 42 to finish. The shape decides speed and surface.0 notes · 0 gear guides
- part 3Pad and setupA pad deep enough for the needle, finger guards, good light and a short shopping list.0 notes · 0 gear guides
- step 1Core shapeRoll core wool tight, stab it firm with a coarse needle and get the shape right before any color.0 notes · 0 gear guides
- step 2Detail and colorA thin colored layer over the core, parts joined, then eyes and small features with a finer needle.0 notes · 0 gear guides
- step 3Surface finishFine needle, shallow stabs, stray fibers trimmed. Or the opposite: fur pulled out with a reverse needle.0 notes · 0 gear guides
- part 7Flat work and fabricFelting wool onto felt, linen, denim or crochet, and making flat shapes in molds and cutters.0 notes · 0 gear guides
- part 8Wet feltingWool, hot soapy water and rubbing. Felt shrinks a lot, so the layout starts bigger.0 notes · 0 gear guides